Rock climber grip strength test reddit. Reddit's rock climbing training community.

Rock climber grip strength test reddit. You can't just train your "forearms" because they contain many different muscles. The strength will come. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. My grip strength was sad when I first started, and it has improved significantly, but so has my technique. Sep 29, 2021 · With 19 user profiles, you can pit your strong grip against your climbing partner’s (and, really, anyone else you’d like to challenge). Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. Aug 8, 2023 · Learn how to use the Tindeq Progressor to perform the perfect finger flexor Critical Force measurements and optimize your endurance training! Jan 1, 2025 · To increase grip strength for rock climbing, focus on exercises like hangboard training and wrist curls. Which will make you better at rock climbing. However, I'd say your statement is rather true in the reverse way: If you want insane grip, you need to train specifically that. This data is helpful to prevent injuries, and better prepare your finger strength for various climbing grades from medium (v5-v10), to difficult (v10-v14), to elite (v1 Sep 29, 2023 · Mastering this intricate interplay is the key to unlocking superhuman grip strength and ascending to new heights in the world of rock climbing. The single-finger strength difference was the most striking. Climbing Grade calculator for determining finger strength needed for different climbing grades based on research using the Grippul. . Improve your climbing abilities, finger health and develop a stronger grip with this innovative approach. A rock climber literally lives or dies by the raw physical strength and ability in every single muscle in his body, whereas a bodybuilder is is going entirely for form. Grip strength helps feel safe and go longer, biceps strength at full extension helps on overhangs, but core strength (being able to keep tension throughout your body as you climb) constantly comes up as the #1 thing you will always use. Sure their main focus is getting sculpted, hence the term “body building”, but you can’t really grow your muscles without also getting stronger. Be sure to check out @TheodorMarTV for strongman content! He's a beast. Did not find tangible improvement, but it definitely does something. I'm aware of a few general tips such as "hold, don't grip" in terms of maintaining finger strength, but there are a few holds in particular that give me trouble. Posted by u/Brutalitarian - 3,148 votes and 1,290 comments Relatively new-ish climber here, and while I agree that technique is a very important part that will allow you to climb harder routes without “muscling” your way through, I’ll also say that yes, grip strength is important. Takes 10 minutes and you only need a barbell and weights. Reddit's rock climbing training community. It takes 2 or 3 months of climbing before your ligaments start to strengthen at all. The crimp, depending on how exactly you do it mainly uses your Flexor Digitorum Profundus. To consistently succeed, a climber needs to develop a vast range of both physical and psychological skills, in addition to good strength, power, endurance, and mobility. However, there are great forearm exercise that you can do that are low impact and great for endurance training. 96M subscribers Subscribe Jun 27, 2023 · Whether your goal is to gain more muscle and overall strength, take on more challenging climbs, or prevent a muscle injury, enhancing your grip strength is the best way to accomplish your rock climbing and bouldering goals. This is well worth checking out, Strengthclimbing has pulled together a lot of different material and built an online test to measure your finger strength / endurance and assess what grade you should be climbing. There's nothing wrong with training pull ups, but technique is the most important thing to learn in the beginning. Finger strength training is not recommended without climbing 2x or more a week for a year due to the historical use of hangboards at body weight load. About a year ago, I began indoor bouldering (rock climbing) and coming from a swimming/lifting background my grip strength is severely lagging. Will rock climbing instead of gym grip exercises produce similar results for general gripping strength and endurance? Powerlifter VS Rock Climber - Who has stronger grip? Magnus Midtbø 2. Any colored belts that are also climbers here? And if so, what advantages have you been able to exploit because of your climbing strength? I know that technique beats strength, but I’m just It's possibly a grip duel device, kinda like arm-wrestling, but for grip strength. r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. Tested it on month 0, 1, 3, 7 and 12 in my first year of climbing and it steadily went up with each test. 💪 I found hanging onto slopers with only the first pad of your fingers to be great training. But it transfers well. Honestly, the grip strength that is practised in this sub is a little different from what you use in rock climbing in general. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Jun 28, 2023 · Strong climbing comes down to more than just finger strengthbut it's still an essential piece of the puzzle. In this article, we will take a look at how to test finger strength with the arm fixated, using tension and compression-based dynamometry. Not a very exciting answer, I know, but just be patient. It went like this. We had one fairly "new" climber who pulled 120% of his body weight, only because his industry/work outside of climbing required him to have strong hands. 2) The StrengthClimbing website. They still have great grip strength but they’re masters of putting more weight on their feet any time they can, this is especially true of big wall guys like Alex. You can also save your data in your profiles and inspire each other as you progress through each week’s hangboard and grip strength exercises session. MembersOnline • yellowfriedbananas ADMIN MOD Dec 19, 2017 · Got it to track my general grip strength over time to satisfy my curiosity. 7M subscribers in the nextfuckinglevel community. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip videos/articles, etc. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I entered a grip strength competition as an 80kg/175lbs climber. Sep 7, 2016 · The validity of test results obtained using dynamometers is sometimes questioned as there are various conditions that can affect the outcome. I'm looking for some advice and discussion on significantly increasing grip strength for rock climbing. Any advice from climbers with a similar story? I believe that rock climbing improving my grip strength did help my own shot. - Even if your grip strength is absolutely terrible, static hangs aren't the ideal exercise right now (until you're really working on problems at the gym that require grip strength, avoid hang boards all together). After his initial grip, he is extremely mindful of where he is putting his feet and how he is shifting his weight. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to… Good climbers climb with their feet. Grip trainers don't come even remotely close to the sort of hand positions you use when climbing. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Oct 18, 2024 · Strength Training Program for Climbers This is a strength training program for intermediate-level climbers who want to get stronger to help improve climbing performance. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Physical Therapist & Climber here: Pinch strength and crimp strength are somewhat related but mainly use different muscles to achieve the goal of holding on to the hold and not falling off. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. Incorporate various grip types, such as open hand, crimp, and pinch, to target different muscles. I've noticed recently that one area that I could definitely use some improvement in is the way that I go about gripping holds. Climbing for 2 months? The best way to increase your finger strength right now is to just climb climb climb. Indoor boulderer here. Apr 25, 2023 · It has been shown that forearm strength and power are important to bouldering performance 1. So, as you prepare for your next climb, remember that it’s not just about conquering the rock—it’s about understanding and harnessing the incredible power within you. I was a rock climbing for 5 years and while my grip was better than average, I wasn’t spectacular at holding onto deadlifts. Found out today my grip strength is extremely weak, should i look into this further? So today i had one of those pre-employment medicals, part of it was the physio testing various things, range of movement etc. This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. As much as people hate to hear it, when it comes to grip strength in the early years of climbing, climbing is the best training for climbing. Jan 26, 2024 · Read our No-Hang routine review. Climbing grips like crimps, pinches, pockets, friction holds and open-hand grips require vice like strength to be sustained through a move. For bouldering, you are mainly limited by absolute strength as most boulder problems have only a few hard moves while route climbing demands more endurance due to the length. That part of the video is at 15:30. You have to train specific grips--pinch grip, crimp, open crimp, etc. And yes we are scared of falling. Finger strength in climbing is often less about grip strength and more about how much force your pulleys and tendons can handle. May 31, 2022 · One big reason so many climbers plateau or otherwise fail to reach their maximum potential is that climbing is an incredibly complex sport, Randall says. I've seen Eric Horst and Geek Climber actually train pinch strength with pinch blocks, which is a targeted and efficient way to expose yourself to frequent load and thus improve. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Tried it as a kid. That's with just climbing, no other weight training etc that would obviously skew things. 11 votes, 26 comments. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Didn't use it long enough to see lasting improvement. But it's probably not the differentiating factor at the NHL level where everyone is a professional athlete with access to world class training regimens. You can probably get it up out of the rack and hold it despite you not being able to squat it. May 26, 2021 · Reddit's rock climbing training community. Of course holding a tough crimp requires a lot of forearm activation but more likely you are more limited by what your fingers can support. This also doesn't account for the climbers overall body strength. 14 votes, 14 comments. The first being, how should I go about matching hands on a Reddit's rock climbing training community. Hand strength and strong arms are helpful but his knowledge is why he can do this while others of similar upper body strength cannot. My fingers were strong as fuck though. I feel like past… Climb outside a lot and you're guaranteed to improve almost all aspects of your climbing, even pure finger strength (depending on what type of climbing you're doing). Dec 19, 2017 · Got it to track my general grip strength over time to satisfy my curiosity. The home of Climbing on reddit. I’ve heard at several occasion advanced climber saying that because of their body type (tall and relatively heavy) they were not the better candidate for achieving high end finger strength based boulder. Even if they don’t have more functional/efficient strength like the climber does, just their size, weight, and conditioning means they could beat most people in a fight. Dedicated to increasing all our… Your shoulders are too immobile to hang correctly with one arm. Not already a member? Sign up for free and join our growing global community of rock climbers. Apr 23, 2025 · The amount of grip strength I saw in their hands was incredibly impressive but do rock climbers have the strongest grip strength of any athletes/workers? Let us take a look: Reddit's rock climbing training community. In this article, we will explore effective techniques and exercises to help you build grip strength and enhance your rock climbing performance. The fundamentals of developing grip strength for rock climbers involve: first The thing that made it surprising to me is that these guys had been training their grip strength specifically for the past few weeks (months?). While the pinch uses your thumb muscles, it uses a different finger muscle, the Lumbricals. Jan 30, 2024 · Introduction Are you a rock climbing enthusiast looking to improve your grip strength? Building strong grip is essential for rock climbers as it allows you to maintain a firm hold on the challenging surfaces and overcome obstacles. Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. 3) Climbharder survey results An interesting survey that lots of people have filled out Apr 15, 2020 · Use these simple tests to evaluate your physical level in climbing! With the results you can build your personalised training program. How do you train specifically for sloper holds? I'm climbing in the 11a range but when it comes to big slopes I can't do much. Although forearm strength is greater in lead climbers than non-climbers, boulderers display greater finger-flexor maximal strength and rate of force development (RFD) when compared to lead climbers 2. Grip strength plays a crucial role in many sports, though the level of strength required and the way it is used can vary significantly. 120 votes, 28 comments. But finger strength is only one of the many variables that allows you to grip bad holds while climbing. The site has many training ideas, and offers training advice. Now forearm or grip strength is a little more complex as in grip strength guys not being able to hang from small edges while climbers seem to have the biggest carry over in terms of applying grip strength to other things as well. However, there is a consensus that the test still has room for improvement. Climbers of all levels are at different places in their personal health and wellness, strength and weaknesses. I started no-gi jiu jitsu a few months ago and grip strength seems to be in my favor. There's a climber called Yves Gravelle (65 kilos) who also trains specifically for grip challenges and has lifted the inch dumbell and has reached the podium in comps where he's severely out sized. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Unfortunately that was not made clear in the video. Put yours to the test with these hangboard assessments designed to measure and track your finger strength and endurance so you can make the most of your training. Having climbed for years I can also tell you that the best climbers in the world are good at transferring the weight onto larger muscle groups and away from pure grip strength. Immobility is a serious issue among climbers; among the half-dozen good climbers I've tested, most could not safely and correctly demonstrate basic overhead mobility on a bar. Translates into contact strength, slopey crimp strength, and big boi sloper strength. 28 votes, 75 comments. Here’s how you improve it. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. Started rock climbing instead to get hand strength. I currently weigh ~175lbs and deadlift 485 (455 with switch grip, no straps) which seems like reasonable grip strength for my weight. Overhead Press session Jan 5, 2022 · Tools Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer The Finger Strength Analyzer will allow you to see how strong your fingers are. Here is a brief rundown of the pros and cons of using this type of hand grip strength test. This will give you a basic idea of how hard you should be able to boulder and how much time you should invest in strength training to progress. It's hard to find any concrete benchmarks as grades are subjective and climbers body type, style, height, etc effects the equation greatly Of all the physical components that contribute to your climbing ability, none is more important than grip strength. Got bored of it because I was a kid with mild ADD. 8. What is the test you're using? from the article: isometric grip strength doing a static hold is easier than moving that load. See full list on rockclimbingwomen. Dec 23, 2024 · Grip Strength Vs Endurance Depending on what type of climbing you are a fan of you will need varying amounts of strength and endurance in your grip. Either way, the 9c strength test is a great way to measure your current climbing abilities. For example, take the intermediate slopers on the BM2000 and hang at the edge with an open grip. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Reddit's rock climbing training community. I’m a 7b climber, mostly rope climb at indoor climbing gyms. I think perhaps I have a fairly strong sporting / weightlifting background prior to climbing, so I had a great baseline of strength/flexibility/tension (+ even pinch grip) coming in - and have overcompensated using these at the expense of developing finger strength. I'm not that shocked a guy as strong as Magnus can beat a strongman in this type of grip strength challenge. Hard crimp boulders often require pushing down with one hand while pulling with another, or wide outside the shoulder strength, or messed up inside the shoulder crosses. Sep 29, 2021 · So you’ve been improving your grip strength through focused warm-ups and stretches, increasing your grip strength by mixing up training holds on the bouldering wall, and finally working all those grip strength exercises into your routine, now it’s time to test your forearm muscles and hand strength with a grip… Reddit's rock climbing training community. Check it out! So the other posters have covered the obvious "these aren't super useful" so I'll directly answer the question of how best to use them. What would you… Do 4-6 reps Do this on different terrain/angle/route as the grip strength day, just for the variety of stimulus and accumulating volume at different angles for skill acquisition I like to superset this with external shoulder rotations, lateral raises, or some other shoulder strengthening work that doesn't come from climbing. Jan 8, 2019 · r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. YBells are fantastic for strength training and phenomenal as grip training equipment for rock climbing. Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. 306 votes, 150 comments. Grip strength is without a doubt one of the most important aspects of rock climbing. Obviously, early on you want to take it easy because you haven't built up the foundation strength, but even pros hurt tendons. Utilize grip strength tools like grip trainers or tennis balls for specific conditioning. 174K subscribers in the climbharder community. Without proper hand strength, the hand and fingers tend to open up and fail. If you want an example load up a squat bar with more than your 1RM. com Sep 7, 2016 · The validity of test results obtained using dynamometers is sometimes questioned as there are various conditions that can affect the outcome. Jun 15, 2023 · It's easy to dismiss pinches as a grip you seldom use, but in fact you use your thumb in pinch mode more than you think. I recently had mine tested at physical therapy using a manual dial guage that was made of metal for strained forearms and my pronated grip strength was in the 120's, supinated (affected by the strains) was in the 70's when we first started. Feb 27, 2019 · I recently had mine tested at physical therapy using a manual dial guage that was made of metal for strained forearms and my pronated grip strength was in the 120's, supinated (affected by the strains) was in the 70's when we first started. See below for a complete video walking through a step-by-step process of how to test no hang finger strength. Feb 2, 2025 · According to the big boys and girls of the YouTube Climbing community [1], the 9c strength test is a "good" test that can be used to design future training paths. Feb 13, 2023 · Just watched this video from a popular youtube climbing channel. 1. For crimps I worked on finger strength, for slopes should I practice palming basketballs? One of the challenges that many new climbers face is lacking grip strength to sustain climbing holds. In this article, we compare the average grip strength in some of the most grip-intensive sports: rock climbing, golf, tennis, and MMA. You don’t need a climbing gym, as all exercise variations can be done with regular free weights and your body weight. We have a similar device at our gym, it's very fun way to get a pulley injury Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip EMSK how to get godlike grip strength with the basic routine from r/GripTraining. All those were fine but then he had me do the grip strength test, I scored in the bottom 10th percentile for people my age. 140 votes, 30 comments. h Grip strength, like any strength, requires highly specific training. Oct 18, 2024 · Strength Training Program for Climbers This is a strength training program for intermediate-level climbers who want to get stronger to help improve climbing performance. You really don't want a finger injury in your first few months of climbing. It's a workout where they compete in different grip exercises. The problem with just climbing routes is that you don't usually expose yourself to enough pinches, so pinch strength won't drastically improve if you don't pinch enough. Got it to track my general grip strength over time to satisfy my curiosity. Apr 2, 2021 · We compiled data from 600+ rock climbers to find sport-specific strength and endurance standards that can help you know where to focus your training efforts. If you are moderately new to climbing and your finger-, pull- and body strengths are equally good or bad. 171K subscribers in the climbharder community. Unfortunately, they did not try competing in closing grippers, which wou Reddit's rock climbing training community. Whether you are a Reddit's rock climbing training community. Hi there, relatively new climber here. bdr jhpsk ranxx pimm xtkwt iasgq uounz rfje hnok jbndnlbij